01/10/2011. Last weekend I had planned to go climbing with my buddy Walter Hölzler who I met in Yosemity 2009. Walter is one of the most solid and experienced climbers I know, so I was really looking forward to a climb together in the alpine. Due to an unfortunate misunderstanding it didn't work out in the end. Sorry about that Walter! This winter for sure...
Instead, my good friend and roommate Nikolay Primerov came along and we set off to Zermatt for a go at the Bonatti direttissima on the north face of the Matterhorn. Niko and I’ve wanted to do an alpine climb together for a long time but never found the time so it was great to finally be on the way. In Zermatt we got some good beta from Pati (thanks!) but still decided to bring bivy gear, two ropes and a large rack. We’re not climbing in the same league…
After a short nights rest in the Hörnli hut we set off and crossed the bergschrund around 5a.m. The first 100-150 meters of climbing were surprisingly steep with little protection. By sunrise we had reached the traverse of the angels. We made good progress up the first half of the face and the main difficulties but then altitude kicked in. Not wanting to make any stupid mistakes we took it easy and arrived at the summit around 7p.m. just in time for a magnificent sunset.
I'd say that conditions were good on the first third of the climb and OK on the rest. Lot's of bad rock and little protection. Impressive and worth noting is that this was actually Niko’s first north face! This might seem incredibly irresponsible but I must add that Niko’s a previous world champion speed ice climber and no stranger to hard mixed climbing.
Psyched!!
I had the honor to wear the hat from the Russian national team ;-)
End of the traverse of the angels
Lots of loose rock...
Higher up on good ice (a bit tilted...)
A tired Niko taking the last steps to the summit
Panorama of the Mischabel massif and the shadow of the Matterhorn
Next morning
Now the weather is getting worse. Good for me, as Magnus and I are leaving to tibet in only 9 days. I need to work and prepare.
Instead, my good friend and roommate Nikolay Primerov came along and we set off to Zermatt for a go at the Bonatti direttissima on the north face of the Matterhorn. Niko and I’ve wanted to do an alpine climb together for a long time but never found the time so it was great to finally be on the way. In Zermatt we got some good beta from Pati (thanks!) but still decided to bring bivy gear, two ropes and a large rack. We’re not climbing in the same league…
After a short nights rest in the Hörnli hut we set off and crossed the bergschrund around 5a.m. The first 100-150 meters of climbing were surprisingly steep with little protection. By sunrise we had reached the traverse of the angels. We made good progress up the first half of the face and the main difficulties but then altitude kicked in. Not wanting to make any stupid mistakes we took it easy and arrived at the summit around 7p.m. just in time for a magnificent sunset.
I'd say that conditions were good on the first third of the climb and OK on the rest. Lot's of bad rock and little protection. Impressive and worth noting is that this was actually Niko’s first north face! This might seem incredibly irresponsible but I must add that Niko’s a previous world champion speed ice climber and no stranger to hard mixed climbing.
Psyched!!
I had the honor to wear the hat from the Russian national team ;-)
End of the traverse of the angels
Lots of loose rock...
Higher up on good ice (a bit tilted...)
A tired Niko taking the last steps to the summit
Panorama of the Mischabel massif and the shadow of the Matterhorn
Next morning
Now the weather is getting worse. Good for me, as Magnus and I are leaving to tibet in only 9 days. I need to work and prepare.
Shit, grymme!!
ReplyDelete/Magnus